How groundbreaking are figures like CHALAMET, STYLES or LIL NAS X?
Gender identity seems to break away from traditional stereotypes, something that has inspired numerous artists such as Billie Eilish or Måneskin. The gender fluid thus moving towards equality and freedom of expression. Now, although the horizons when it comes to dressing are undoubtedly changing, it should be remembered that the expression on which Harry Lambert, Styles’ stylist, is based, for example, is built much more easily on the male figure than on the female one. .
Let’s remember that Timothée Chalamet presenting his latest film, ‘Bones and All’, wearing a Haider Ackermann suit with a back and shapes that we would identify as perfect for a woman on the same red carpet. The world of entertainment surrendered at his feet, just as it does before those men who rebel against the traditional idea of masculinity.. Meanwhile, however, the film’s young co-star, María Carla Boscono, was walking around practically naked, with no one stopping to think about the different directions the fight seems to be taking for men and women.
The world of communication works in the same way for both sexes, but the heroes are now men. It is curious how this same communication gave up at the time and filled covers with the totally recognizable naked dresses from Cher in the 80s or Kate Moss in the 90s. And that maximum expression of the nude continues to inspire women today to the point of going almost unnoticed if a man next to her shows his back.
Fortunately, celebrities such as Billy Porter, Bad Bunny, Jaden Smith or Harris Reed (the non-binary designer behind his eponymous brand who dresses many of those mentioned), have studied the lesson well, and although it is forgotten by many, they have rescued the roots that the Glam Rock of the 70s united. There we have David Bowie with his impossible platforms and tight suits, Marc Bolan as the biggest fan of sequins and Animal Printor the glam of Freddy Mercury becoming a queer icon at the same time.
And it is that while all of them were building the foundations of a revolution that seemed to have arrived to change the way men dress forever, the expression of their identity began to almost disappear over time. Although it is true that the main reason why we are passionate about fashion is because of how it is capable of reflecting the changes that occur in society and becoming -many times- the spark that awakens a new way of thinking, but we have just to see how he is gender fluid that is now booming is not something new.
Every revolution needs to break the rules, but it is equally or almost more important to know how to introduce it and maintain it in society. Although it is the best news to have all those names mentioned in this article willing to become icons of gender freedom, the necessary change must begin with other agents that really cause a social transformation. Fashion is one of the tools and, definitely, one of the most prepared to support and consolidate change, but if we wait for it to act independently, it is likely that our protagonists, as happened before, will become only the example of what could have been…
Ana Gonzalez: @anaaaaglez