From Julianne Moore and Thandiwe Newton to Anne Hathaway, Zoë Kravitz and Salma Hayek, makeup artist Kay Montano has quite the arsenal of celebrities in your client portfolio. Over the years, Montano, who is also a makeup ambassador for Chanel, has become a master of how to beautify the skin at all ages. “I work with adult women, who are 30, 40 and 50 years old, which for me is when they reach their best moment,” she tells me on the phone. “My job is to make your skin radiant.”
Whether you’re going through the perimenopause As if you simply need a little help so that your tired skin radiates a good face, Montano –also radiant at his fifty years old– teaches us how to rejuvenate the skin so that it looks bright and healthy.
Modify your makeup and skincare routine
“Skin reflects the continuous changes we experience in life: you go from being a girl to a teenager, to an adult woman, maybe to a pregnancy and then to menopause. When you are young, you can use products that contain powders and nuance , but when you reach your thirties, you begin to realize that the product you used when you were twenty is no longer working for you. As we get older and go through different changes, we have to modify our skin care and makeup routine.”
“We go through perimenopause a long time before menopause hits,” says Montano. “If you don’t submit to a hormone replacement therapy (TRH), you will immediately notice the lack of estrogen in your body and its effects will become very evident very quickly. The skin dries out (and everything else). Estrogens, progesterone and testosterone are vital for skin health, elasticity and zest for life.”
“When we hit middle age, there’s less moisture in the skin, and it shows. The effects of dehydration don’t hide as well, so you have to be disciplined with water intake: when you have a hangover in your twenties, it is not noticeable on the skin, but years later the lines appear immediately. My advice is to give your skin a temporary boost of hydration through creams and makeup; although the only way to strengthen it in the long term is to do it from within and maintain a good care routine. The good thing about makeup now is that a lot of the products are also moisturizing.”
wear less makeup
“The older you get, the less makeup you should wear. because the product settles into the lines and grooves of the skin and gives you an older look. What I like the least is using powder foundations. It leaves the face too even and instantly makes you look five years older. It dulls the skin a lot and accentuates expression lines.”
give the massage
“Given time and money, it’s best to go to a facialist twice a week. But you can also adopt some of her techniques at home using tools like the gua shawhich is very good for the skin. If you want to treat sagging skin, applying a small massage will help you lift the features. When I notice myself looking tired, I use Jillian Dempsey’s Gold Bar. I often use it to apply moisturizer to reduce inflammation on my face, because half the time when you look bad, your skin is simply because it’s inflamed. As the body ages, it eliminates fewer toxins, so if you’ve taken too much salt the night before, you get double chin”.
How to deflate the skin
“In addition to massages, I pour very cold water on my face to relieve swelling. I also drink a lot of dandelion tea: it’s a diuretic, so if you have a swollen face, it helps a lot. There are also dandelion teas in drop format, which is what I take when I’m on the go. It helps me combat the fluid retention. If you drink a lot of tea in the morning, you’ll have peed it all out by lunchtime.”
“I love the serums with vitamin C: They brighten the skin a lot and I have found that they make you look younger. Drunk Elephant’s Vitamin C is great because it has a slightly sticky, shiny feel to it, making skin look younger and more radiant. If you notice your skin is too oily before makeup, there’s an old trick taught me by Barbara Daly, who is one of the great pioneers of the makeup world. The way to know if you have the right amount of moisturizer on your skin is to take a piece of tissue paper, press it onto your skin and remove the excess: what’s left is what your skin needs. With this, you already have the beautiful skin to start doing your makeup.”
Less is more
“I usually keep my cheeks as sheer as possible, because that gives you a youthful look. You should only apply makeup where it’s absolutely necessary. Most people have dark circles under their eyes, so I only apply the concealer in the dark area instead of extending it below as well. The skin in this area is very thin, so if you apply a lot of product, you suddenly create wrinkles that you couldn’t see before, because the skin stretches with the movement of your eyes throughout the day. I recommend using a concealer wand because that way you can paint more precise semicircles: one from the inner corner of the brow to the inner corner of the eye, and the other under the eyecup. Then, lightly press the product on the skin, without rubbing it.
The T-zone trick
“My job is to create optical illusions that add depth. It’s about knowing where to put shadow and where to put light. I have discovered that if I keep mattified T-zone with loose powder in contrast to other brighter areas of the face, it works very well. You have to use very, very fine powders because they crack less and are less obvious.”
Yes to cream textures
“The cream blushes They are great, especially if you apply them with a brush. Apply them high on the cheekbones for a more youthful look.”
Open up and look up
“Eyelash curlers are great for bringing your eyes to life. They’re almost more important than mascara because you don’t often see straight lashes. Curling them helps lift and open up your eyes.”
This article was originally published on Vogue.co.uk. Translation and adaptation: Esther Giménez.