Bella Hadid’s oval, Kendall Jenner’s gaze, Kate Middleton’s cheekbones, Emily Ratajkowski’s mouth, Kim Kardashian’s contouring… aesthetic medicine demands are now based on characteristics set up as ideal references.
The most beautiful woman in the world looks like Bella Hadid. According to a scientific study carried out by the British cosmetic surgeon Julian de Silva in 2019, the model’s face is the one that would come closest to the idea of ”perfection” at 94.35%, ahead of Amber Heard and Beyoncé. It is in any case the result of a mathematical equation calculating the golden ratio (or golden ratio), used by architects and artists since ancient Greece in crafting masterpieces.
This measures the symmetry and harmony of facial features (such as the gap between the eyes, the length between the nose and the chin, the height of the forehead, etc.). The closer its proportions are to the golden figure (also called the phi number), the more the profile corresponds to the physical ideal imagined at the time.
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The dictates of social networks
Today, it’s a new algorithm that defines the canons of beauty: that of social networks, where selfies of celebrities are constantly flowing and looking their best. “Social networks are very much a source of demand for aesthetic medicine. Patients often begin to build their project under their influence,” notes Dr.r Arnaud Lambert, aesthetic doctor and co-founder of the firm Aesthé, in Paris. “What they see on the publications of the stars inspires them. They want to act on their lips, their contouring, their jawline, redraw their oval: these are all fashions born on these platforms. Trends that especially interest the generation of millennials in search of “beautification” rather than rejuvenation. In this sense, “the request is more focused on contouring: the play of curves that emerges between the concavity of the cheek, the convexity of the cheekbone and that of the mandibular angle. They want to highlight the different features of the face, so that it appears more structured. It’s a way to improve what they already have, while moving towards more current beauty codes,” continues the specialist. A kind of “facial architecture”, inspired by Kim Kardashian’s favorite makeup method, 3D version. However, “these criteria remain fads, so we must not give in to them at all costs”, recalls the Dr Alexandre Marchac, plastic surgeon in Paris.
The “jawlineby Bella Hadid
The drawn and sculpted mandibular line of Bella Hadid attracts all desires. “More and more women want to improve their oval, because it is synonymous with youth and beauty,” says Dr.r Christelle Santini, plastic surgeon in Paris, who observes a significant revival of interest from patients to treat their jawline for about three years. Same observation for the Dr Alexandre Marchac, plastic surgeon in Paris, who also explains this enthusiasm by recent scientific progress: “New injection techniques have made it possible to beautify the lower third of the face. Brazilian doctors have developed a method called “facial harmonization”, revealing spectacular before-after photos with jaw lines created only with hyaluronic acid. Since then, the neat, straight and traced mandibular line has become a criterion of beauty. It is also for men, even more!”, notes the specialist. On social networks, make-up tips, facial massage techniques and other facial gymnastics practices are multiplying to naturally obtain the same look. On TikTok alone, the hashtag #jawline, which lists all these tutorials, exceeds one billion views.
Lips hemmed by Emily Ratajkowski
Paradoxically, the wearing of the mask has exploded the requests for aesthetic interventions on the mouth: “Hidden behind a piece of fabric, the lips could deflate and heal discreetly during the inflammatory phase following the injections”, explains Doctor James Schinazi, aesthetic doctor in Paris, who observes a very clear increase in interest for this area of the face among millennials in particular. The most popular look for the past two years, according to industry professionals? The “Russian Lips”. This method, widely made popular through social media, involves shaping the lips into a heart shape, like those of a matryoshka doll, lifting them upwards rather than plumping them forward. “Instead of filling them in a homogeneous way to increase their volume, as the traditional technique proposes, we inject hyaluronic acid at the level of the commissures and Cupid’s bow in order to create this ultra-designed and enhanced side”, describes the Dr Schinazi. From the front, the natural contours are redefined, accentuated and hemmed to give an overall plumper look. The advantage of this technique is that it does not cause the dreaded “duck’s mouth” effect in profile.
The “foxy eyesby Kendall Jenner
More than the almond-shaped eyes, it is the gaze stretched on the sides and raised towards the temples in a “cat eye” style that has been attracting the attention of the younger generation for two years. This area of the face, highlighted with the wearing of the mask, is seen as a bonus devoid of signs of fatigue. “A combination of botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid can be injected to treat loss of volume and support. We then use the tensor threads to lift the tail of the eyebrow and stretch the outer corner of the eye to a level higher than the inner corner. This is what gives a more dynamic, deeper and less tired look”, explains the Dr Alexandre Marchac, cosmetic surgeon in Paris, specifying however that “it is a rather invasive practice” for temporary results. If the demand for these “fox eyes” (or canthopexy) is particularly on the rise among twenties and thirties, other patients may also find it of interest: “There are real indications in women who have the eye ” sad”, which falls down, no matter how old they are”, adds the expert. On social networks, make-up tutorials are multiplying to reproduce this “doe’s eye” look without going through the scalpel box, with strokes of eyeliner and eye shadow or false eyelashes.
The “happy faceby Kate Middleton
It’s not just her hairstyles and dresses that the world envies. “The Duchess of Cambridge has a beautiful face, but what the public loves is her friendly, happy and welcoming expression which gives more comfort and confidence”, analyzes Professor Syed Haq, specialist in cosmetic surgery, according to remarks reported by the DailyMail in 2020. High and prominent cheekbones, radiant smile, sparkling gaze, radiant mine… The playful air of Prince William’s wife has become a model of cosmetic surgery and inspires a new trend: that of a more “joyful” face. , which consists of masking any trace of hardness, firmness or sadness. “The ‘happy face’ look à la Kate Middleton is in the continuity of the aesthetic medicine that we have always liked to practice in France: the one that does not modify the features too much, but sublimates them”, confirms the Dr Sarah Fadli, aesthetic doctor and medical director of Maison Lutétia, in Paris. “Women don’t want to metamorphose. Rather, they try to erase all negative facial signs and highlight anything that might give a positive image to their expression. We are not overdone, the result must be natural.
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The gua sha technique
A tutorial that has gone viral on TikTok shows beauticians naturally modeling their oval thanks to a facial massage tool: the gua sha. “It helps sculpt the contour of the face and remove toxins from the skin. By relaxing certain muscles and draining excess fluids, it will deflate the double chin area and tighten it, like a lifting effect,” confirms Léa Perez, facialist at the FaceKult studio in Paris. The right move? “With the small tip of the gua sha, rub the skin from the chin to the ear, passing under the jawbone. This is what helps to redraw the mandibular line”, assures the expert, who recommends ten repetitions in a dynamic way on each side, to be reproduced every day to obtain visible results.