The new life of the tie, from its fall to the female rescue

A girl with a tie.

  • In the fashion shows of the Fall/Winter 2022 women’s collections, several designers have opted for women’s ties

  • The garment that was born in the 18th century has been seeing a significant drop in sales for several years

  • The relaxed fashion when it comes to dressing the new executives is causing men to wear them less at work

It already happened with the hat. From an essential item of clothing, to an obsolete or merely testimonial adornment. fashion dictates sentence and men’s ties long ago living in discount time. And it is not because the President of the Government has recommended that they not be used as an energy-saving measure… Ties have been out of use for years and the pandemic is being the last straw that can kill her. Or so it was thought, until the women have come to her rescue.

In the fashion shows of the women’s collections of Fall/Winter 2022 several designers opted for them. The garment born in the 17th century is experiencing a new boom thanks to women’s fashion, because among men it has long been considered an ornament demode

“What the president said about the use of the tie is irrelevant and has not been the trigger. We we are seeing a change in trend for a few years and the circumstances have not helped anything either, not only because of the economic damage derived from covid, it is also due to teleworking people got used to dress in a relaxed way to workAnd now that trend is being followed,” says Carlos Satrústegui, CEO of the men’s fashion firm Lester.

A relaxation that had been observed for a long time. The image of Steve Jobs, founder of Apple, with jeans, black turtleneck t-shirt and sneakers The trend changed and little by little the executives of the technology companies in Silicon Valley made fashionable a comfortable way of dressing that It has been copied in Europe.

“The people who wore ties, such as lawyers or banking personnel, with the arrival of the new generations they are relaxing their way of dressing. It began to spread with the calls Casual Friday and then imitating the executives of technology companies who dress in any way”, confirms the businessman. Satrústegui knows what he is talking about, he has spent his entire working life dedicated to this garment in lester lA family business founded by his father in 1992 and run today by him and his sister Sonia. In “the good years” they came to sell 100,000 ties per year but already in 1995, when they opened their first store, they decided to diversify the business before the first warning signs.

“In the first crisis of 2007 we already noticed the first change, this fashion thing is cyclical but this time it seems to be serious. Our Italian manufacturers are alarmed and some have already begun to reconvert, now they create scarves or bathing suits“explains the businessman.

trends change

That fashion is cyclical is nothing newtrends come and go and according to the experts it takes 20 years to return to adore the fashions that one day disappeared. That’s why the return of cargo pants, fanny packs, micro skirts and even hats. There is not influencer that self-respecting not wear a little hat at some point in his life.

“Fashion can help. If the great designers go for ties, even if they make them more striking or extravagant, the garment will surely come back,” says Satrústegui. And the designer Juan Duyos agrees: “I think that the tie should not be lost, la serious tie seems a bit clumsy to me but turning it into a bow or something over the top could be fun and work,” he says.

The truth is that he is not the only one to think like this, some of the great designers have already begun to bet on them, although the recipient has changed.

Women as a possible solution

Ties are a garment that became fashionable in the 17th century after the Thirty Years’ War. Croatian horsemen wore a red bow knotted around their necks that their women put on them as a symbol of love before going to war. Chroniclers say that the French Royal Guard began to copy an outfit that was knew how cravate (a noun derived from Croatian in French) and that soon it was spreading among the European courts.

And if it was women who devised it in the 21st century, now it is women who again they are coming to your rescue.

At the parade of the women’s collections of Autumn/Winter 2022 Louis Vuittonthe designer Nicolas Ghesquière presented a collection with shirts oversized and male ties. A few months ago, actress Dakota Johnson attended the American television program The morning show wearing tie. And the singer Rosalía was shown in networks with a look of Prada schoolboy style with tie included.

Actress Jessica Chastain also wore a white one in June on the red carpet of the Tribeca Festival, a look toAdmired and approved by fashion experts.

1402991432Dominik Bindl

In addition, some of the gurus who set what will be a trend, such as Gabriella Berdugo or Diane Batoukina, are being seen with them at fashion weeks in different countries.

Gabriella Berdugo wearing a tie at a fashion event.Edward Berthelot

“The truth is that I’ve never understood why women don’t wear it more. We have tried it in some act and it looks very good, with a casual style and without the formalism of men, but favors”reflects the businessman, trusting in a market, the feminine one, which can reverse its disuse and revive the tie again.

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