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“There will necessarily be Kylie Jenner”

Courreges

Courrèges, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022
Courrèges, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022 (COURRÈGES)

In the studios of the Saint-Denis plain, “on the plain” I hear, a circle of sand: a merry-go-round. Not many guests and then there are also all the people who have never made it this far. Next to me, the mother, sister and niece of Nicolas di Felice (artistic director of the house). A family resemblance. It upsets me that there are three of them in Courrèges, putting on the kid’s clothes, it upsets me that they are intimidated because Fashion is made up of people who have nothing to do with it, because the kid has spread its wings, dreamed of realizing itself through fashion. It’s always like that.

The show begins with the sound of the sea, and it’s summer and it’s the beach, but it’s a bit worrying, we don’t know if we should be happy about a sunny day or not.

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Several things, in bulk: the accuracy of the casting. Rounder bodies, nothing more, in the middle of long stems. Just that, like a cursor being moved. The beauty of these bodies reminiscent of Bardot’s. Then, the eagerness with which one appropriates the clothes. A certain wrap skirt low on the hips, with its unusual cutout (adorned with buckles) at the hem. The volumes of the jackets, as wide as honest handshakes. Sequins on a blue set. Nicolas di Felice, renders such a service to Courrèges. It leaves the mark of the fossilization where its success had placed it, and also of an injunction of novelty. You have to know how to disobey without distorting. What we see parading there is not the Courrèges of Emily in Paris (which, found at Plaisir Palace, is very beautiful), or else she should have spent a little more time in the capital. But I have no doubts: all over the world, thanks to the grace of social networks, these looks are becoming France.

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The Row

The Row
The Row (SOPHIE FONTANEL COLLAGE)

I remember the birth of The Row (2017). We wondered if the Olsen sisters would manage to impose an American brand as a symbol of absolute luxury. They seemed to aim high, they were so slender. And then, we started drooling over these almost monastic outfits. And then, we wanted to go to New York if only to see a The Row fashion show. And then, in the middle of all that, we looked at the price, which was calming, as they say. Who calms down again.

The Row has achieved the unthinkable: put itself in the firmament.

Chic, friends, it is said that it cannot be invented, but it always starts with people, rich or poor, who have invented themselves. Otherwise, it’s nothing but good chic. The Row responds to the vulgarity of the world with an elegance that is in no way reactionary, which could even turn out to be revolutionary. In the avalanche and often triviality of hastily edited videos, in an absurd and almost worse than climatic urgency, The Row summons Elvis Presley’s sweetest song, Blue Moon, and gives a lesson in refinement. We dream of someone going to get their Oscar like this, in flip-flops, in a needle-embroidered dress which, despite the prodigy of its realization and its appeal to the senses, seems to come out of a convent. I have a friend who finds beauty to be so intoxicating. He says : “It’s boring beauty”. He is wrong, in my opinion. But maybe he says that because beauty requires a minimum of attention, and we become incapable of attention. Vulgarity, however heavy it is, goes quickly. Well, I’ve chosen my camp, I put myself in cardiac coherence with the slow step of creatures dressed in The Row.

On leaving, we are offered figs. I already have my head elsewhere: don’t I have a big white nightgown at home to wear with a black coat?

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Hope.

Acne studios

Acné Studios, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022
Acné Studios, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022 (COLLAGE BY SOPHIE FONTANEL)

My colleague from Le Figaro (Hélène) and I remember the first Acne Studios show in London, in September 2010, the cluster of curious people who came to see even more curious things scroll by, imagined by people who could have spent their whole lives to make jeans. Today, the attendance of an Acne Studios show is close to crowded, and a good part of the people dressed in Acne remained bizarre, of an absolute originality. Acne Studios continues to sell jeans, anyway.

Kylie Jenner is two meters from me, alone against a wall as if she were going to be shot but she is happy (it seems), the phones and cameras pointed at her, it’s her life. She is dressed in the collection which will parade in a few minutes, it seems. These things happen often.

The decor is in pink satin, the color of Acne Studios and for which it was even criticized for a time, because it had connotations. Acne’s luck is to have absolutely nothing to give a damn about the prejudices of one or the other. One day, the founder (Jonny) told me that, living in a corner of Sweden, he had the grace of not knowing what is done and what is not done.

The sequel after the ad

Kylie Jenner attends the Acne Studios Spring-Summer 2023 fashion show during the Paris Fashion Week in Paris on September 28, 2022. (Photo by Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP)
Kylie Jenner attends the Acne Studios Spring-Summer 2023 fashion show during the Paris Fashion Week in Paris on September 28, 2022. (Photo by Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP) (GEOFFROY VAN DER HASSELT / AFP)

Here is the show. A lot of my non-fashionable friends would say it’s a dingo parading. Her sandals are gaiters on the front, she wears a large blue bow on the heart, between the countess of Ségur and the fairground beast, and her asymmetrical lace dress struggles to hide her pink panties. Say like that, it’s a joke. But here it is, it’s not a joke, again it’s a sentence and it’s only just begun. Start by doing lace without being cucul the praline, nor flatly neo-romantic. I don’t know if Acne Studios is asking itself questions but the brand is finding answers. She unravels everything.

So of course it stings. As if to prove it, here are the models, which look so sweet, are clad in thorns. The bags are studded with them. But soon the sleeves of coats and jackets, too. Sewing pants. And yet, all these beings have a heart, moreover they often wear them, it’s taken from the print on their outfit, it’s embroidered, it’s there, huge, everywhere. These beings in pink like a booster shot. The temptation to protect oneself and the desire to proclaim one’s tenderness. Both at the same time. We.

The Real Street Parade

Shang Xiao

SHANG XIA, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022
SHANG XIA, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022 (COLLAGE BY SOPHIE FONTANEL)

Sometimes it goes like this. Gray sets in and any pastel color has the effect of a sun. And pastel colors, there were plenty at this Shang Xia show. But the beauty of this show can’t just be explained by its Candy Crush side. You have to be very talented not to make a colorful show gimmicky, so that great rigor is maintained. Yang Li, the artistic director of this house, has an inspired hand.

What did we see at this Shang Xia fashion show? Aside from images that didn’t add much by way of decor, the perfection of the hue (this watery green, this mauve…), the happiness through the pace (which could be seen by the size of the strides that the models were doing) and, in the middle of it all, a passion for heroines. It’s a bit abstract, everything I just said, because you should see them, these platform boots, lacquered, or gold, or silver, like a “statement” of the foot, from which, in an ultramodern fetishism, one would have to start in order to then create all the rest. You should see them, the short hair colored, like PlayMobil wigs. You should see it, the long and ample ecru skirt, split in front and behind, and which flies on the person who wears it. Everywhere, leather. Luxury through leather. Leather even for a tank top adorned with a rabbit’s head, with irresistible graphics.

The sequel after the ad

Human Journal of Fashion: “I’m not crazy”

Chloe

Chloé, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022
Chloé, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022 (COLLAGE BY SOPHIE FONTANEL)

Before, people in front of the entrance to fashion shows were there because they loved fashion, and dreamed of entering this environment. In fact, it often ended up happening, in fact. Now I notice a multitude of onlookers, there to see possible celebrities. I hear someone say: “There will necessarily be Kylie Jenner”. Because it was seen on social networks that she is in Paris. Except that, no luck, it’s 300 meters from here that she was two hours ago, at Schiaparelli’s, Place Vendôme. I start joking that it’s me, Kylie Jenner, and people are so nice, they want to see her so badly, they’re celebrating me.

This is my first Chloé show since Gabriela Hearst became artistic director of the house. I wore Moon Boots designed by her and her studio all last winter and I took such pleasure in them that I had to come and see what this woman, who dresses my feet so well, has under hers. , of foot.

I wondered one day what makes a Chloé garment. Because, casually, it’s not so easy to pick up, as a brand. And I said to myself that Chloé makes clothes and shoes that are self-sufficient. I mean that there must always be something definitive about it. Chloé is never anecdotal, never messy, never vain. Well, if it’s successful. And Gabriela Hearst fulfills this specification. What is scrolling here? Relaxed sandals but already with a certain pride because, as they are, I haven’t seen them anywhere yet. They have decorative lacing on the hood, and hook and loop fasteners and…well, they’re insane. Black leather pants have a Jimmy Hendrix side but with a femininity, a fullness… Its ecru canvas version has the same relaxation.

A little later, at the cafe, a colleague tells me that it’s commercial. Looks like we’re working for charity!

The sequel after the ad

Isabel funny

Isabel Marant, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022
Isabel Marant, Paris Fashion Week, September 2022 (COLLAGE BY SOPHIE FONTANEL)

I arrive 45 minutes in advance, and on Morgane Dubled, model with whom I sympathized lately. We have a drink at the café at the entrance to the show. She tells me about her thesis subject at university a few years ago, on the culture of the selfie. Time passes and suddenly we hear hysterical cries at the same time as we see the densification of the crowd: celebrities arrive. Next to us, a fairly standard man gets on a chair. He comes down right away: “I don’t know why I did that”. Yes, we can all get caught up in this tension.

Inside the place of the parade (gardens of the Palais Royal), it is quieter even if a person from the production of the show, who pushes towards the exit someone who intends to try a passage in force, is caught by a scandalized American: “You touched him! ».

It is 9 p.m., a first creation by Isabel Marant parades. It’s crazy, this whole collection reminds me of my first contacts with the brand. I recognize the Indian muslins, the hipster spirit meeting the dapper kid. White on red, nothing moves. Ties hang, shorts puff, baggies baggies, the cutout of the tank tops is iconic. Isabel, who has long had fun testing on herself the looks she had imagined, seems to like dressing boys much more now. Not one failed. And the most successful girls are boyish. It seems that Isabel Marant felt it, she who feels everything, that the big file now was that of men.

Outside, people are waiting, who knows who.

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