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all the trends you will wear… soon

September is one of two months, each year, dedicated to fashion ready-to-wear. And not only because the fashion shows are held in which designers present their proposals for (at least until now) next spring-summer, starting in New York, but also because for years, the paper copy of the women’s magazines of that month was one of the largest.

That’s why the famous documentary September Issue (2009), told how the issue of the magazine was made fashion of that month in the year 2007: its 840 pages and almost 2.5 kilos in weight, it was the largest in the history of that publication (until, in September 2012, a cover with Lady Gaga managed to surpass it).

Until the Internet arrived, the September issue of women’s paper magazines collected all the autumn-winter trends, and it was one of the best sellers.

Anna Wintour, the almighty director of Vogue USA, allowed the director RJ Cutler to enter the editorial office of the magazine, a year after the film The Devil Wears Prada It will leave her in a not very good place. Of course, in the documentary, it’s not that it looks very good either, but for that they will have to see it.

But in it you can see Anna Wintour and the magazine’s fashion director, Grace Coddington, in action. And if you are lucky enough to attend, during New York Fashion Week, the show of one of Wintour’s “chosen” designers, you can see them both, sitting in the front row, to see the collection (although everyone knows that Anna Winotur is taught it before).

September is, therefore, one of the two editions that fashion weeks celebrate around the world: and until, in 2015, the famous see now, buy now (which could be translated into Spanish as “you see it now, you buy it now”) was where they presented their novelties for the spring-summer of next year.

Thanks to the Internet, today we can see the parades live and buy the clothes presented by some designers without having to wait a few months. The freedom and flexibility that it has given to the creators, as they themselves recognize, is immense.

Until a decade ago, designers presented their collections on the catwalks of their country: today they change according to their needs, and in previous editions we have seen Tommy Hilfiger parade at Milan Fashion Week, or Spanish designers, such as Juana Martín or Juanjo Oliva, parade in Paris.

New York is the catwalk that, as they say, “gives the starting signal” and will be followed by London, Madrid, Milan and Paris. But in the Big Apple, some of the most famous designers in the world of fashion meet, whose parades are the most anticipated, including Carolina Herrera, Tom Ford, Gabriela Hearst, Ulla Johnson, Tommy Hilfiger and Michael Kors.

More than a hundred designers and brands meet, season after season, on the New York catwalk. The firm Proenza Schouler opened the parade calendar, founded in 2002 by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, both students from the Parsons School in New York who, to name their brand, chose their maternal surnames.

Twenty years later, they have among their many fans actresses and other celebrities and even Anna Wintour herself. With this collection they want to pay homage to the Latin origins of one of the two halves of the duo, Lázaro Hernandez, with machine-crocheted garments with technological finishes, rubber mesh in cocktail dresses with sculptural sleeves and Irish lace with French embroidery for the most elegant dresses.

In 2017, they temporarily left New York Fashion Week to show at Haute Couture in Paris so as not to be pigeonholed as ‘American designers’. And they launched their second (more affordable) line, Proenza Schouler White Label, and their first perfume, Arizona.

Another group of designers, previously regulars at the MBFWNY, have not paraded in this edition: Ralph Lauren presented his collection in March, at the Museum of Modern Art, and Marc Jacobs, in June, at the Public Library.

Narciso Rodríguez has also set aside the New York Fashion Week runway for just over a year, and presents two collections at intimate events held in the months of December and June, distancing himself from the traditional calendar.

[Narciso Rodriguez: quién es el diseñador cubano-estadounidense que ha seducido a Marta Ortega]

This edition has given us what the specialized press calls “momentazos”: for example, see the parade with which Fendi has celebrated the 25th anniversary of its iconic bag baguette (which is named for the size of the diamond and not the loaf of bread, despite the memes circulating this week).

The Italian firm changed Milan, where it regularly parades, for New York, but not by chance: in the series sex in the city (in Spain, sex in new york), in addition to the manolos, Carrie Bradshaw’s character has a soft spot for the Fendi bag (which stars in the robbery scene). And Sarah Jessica Parker was in the front row of the parade.

Delfina Delletrez, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Linda Evangelista, Marc Jacobs and Kim Jones.

Delfina Delletrez, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Linda Evangelista, Marc Jacobs and Kim Jones.

The second surprise of the Fendi shows was to see Linda Evangelista parade, who hadn’t walked a catwalk in 15 years (when she walked in John Galliano’s Fall/Winter 2007 Haute Couture collection for Dior).

Kim Jones, current creative director of the Italian firm (the previous one was Karl Lagerfeld, who died in 2019), invited the New York designer Marc Jacobs to join forces to achieve a surprising collection, in which we have seen neon colors and garments of enormous proportions.

[Linda Evangelista, estrella en el desfile de Fendi]

Tommy Hilfiger has also joined this trend in Factory, his latest collection named after Andy Warhol, since that was the name of the studio he had in the 1960s, located on 47th Street in Manhattan. At New York Fashion Week we have seen some of the top models of the moment: Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Shalom Harlow…

Hilfiger is today (along with Ralph Lauren), one of the deans of American fashion and, for this collection, has collaborated with the British Richard Quinn, whose striking prints jump to his classics preppy: sweatshirts, baseball jackets, college jackets and cardigans, and down jackets.

Tommy Hilfiger is one of those who have signed up for the see now, buy now, so the garments could be purchased immediately after her show, which was also broadcast in the metaverse.

The Italian firm Marni has also signed up to present its spring 2023 collection in DUMBO, the trendy neighborhood in Brooklyn, instead of Milan. And the firm COS (which belongs to the Swedish group that also owns H&M) also chose New York Fashion Week to do so, given its interest in the US market.

The Carolina Herrera Collection (designed by the American Wes Gordon since 2018) has been an ode to spring in its most universal image, flowers. Inspired by the novel The Secret Graden (in Spanish, The secret Garden) by the American nationalized British writer Frances Hodgson Burnett, which was published in 1911.

An exquisite collection, with different floral prints and surprising volumes (especially in the balloon sleeves) that alternate with black garments and sequins.

Other designers filled the catwalk with flowers (almost always the most used pattern in spring-summer collections), for example, Dennis Johnson (a favorite of the late Ivana Trump, Martha Stewart, Kris Jenner, Candace Bushnell ( the author of the novel on which the series is based sex and the city), and even Tommy Hilfiger’s wife, Dee Ocleppo Hilfiger.

Ulla Johnson literally covered the ground with flowers through which his models paraded, in the Court of Fine Arts of the Brooklyn Museum. The designer born and raised in Mahattan has made her collection with fabrics made on looms by artisans from cooperatives in Guatemala and Shibori silks hand-printed by women in Bangalore (India).

Silk ribbon and crochet also woven by the few remaining artisans in Los Angeles and New York (United States), and they know how to use old machinery in such a way that, as the designer stated, up to five people have been involved in some garments.

There are also names like Tommy Hilfiger, who returns to the Big Apple after three years with a parade inspired by Andy Warhol’s famous Factory, which will be broadcast in the metaverse and whose clothes can be bought immediately, in contrast to the collections that take months to reach the public.

Veteran Michael Kors bets on red, white and teal, and for the color that we have seen the most: lime green. Her dresses and jackets continue to be some of the best patterns on the catwalk.

Tory Burch, the philanthropist designer (her foundation helps women in the United States to undertake) who appears on the Forbes list, presented her collection on a gigantic stage. Her style, rated as boho preppy it dazzled Oprah Winfrey in 2005, and today it appeals to women of very different styles and ages.

A moment from the Tory Burch show.

A moment from the Tory Burch show.

One of the most anticipated parades is that of Gabriela Hearst, creative director of Chloé since 2020, to show the collection of her own line (which bears her name) she had as a model none other than the Spanish singer Leiva.

[¿Quién es Gabriela Hearst, la diseñadora que hizo desfilar a Leiva?]

Another of the most anticipated parades is that of the designer Prabal Gurung, born in Singapore and raised in Nepal, who chose the United Nations headquarters square as his stage, for his activism in defense of the rights of immigrants and women.

After passing through the University of New Delhi, and the Parsons School in New York, doing internships at Donna Karan and working at Bill Blass (where he became creative director), he launched his own brand, in which he combines cultural references from the East and West and achieved a very personal style.

On this occasion, she mixes tulle and leather, colors and textures in a collection that will undoubtedly delight her fans, including Rooney Mara, Carey Mulligan, Zoe Saldana, Sandra Bullock, Hailee Steinfeld and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.

The great Tom Ford, leader of the famous CFDA, ‘closed’ the calendar (Council of Fashion Designers of America or Council of Fashion Designers of the United States) in the years of the pandemic and promoter of changes to promote inclusivity and sustainability in the sector.

Ford presented a collection in which, as a song in the 80s said, “girls are warriors” and opted for glitter (even for the gentlemen’s tuxedo, which he also dressed in fuchsia pink) and black. All the looks, in our image gallery.

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